Once the scary drilling bit was sorted I started at the hole nearest amidships on the inside of the hull, threading the 7mm braid out then back in and through a length of the clear tubing which I'd cut at 140mm. The rope was threaded through the 7mm holes I had drilled and simply knotted inside the hull. I kept the bow loop of 7mm braid large enough to get 4 fingers through but not so big as to allow a hand to pass through as I'd read that this constituted a trapping hazard in an emergency. Whilst I had my drill handy and bouyed up by the fact I'd not ruined anything yet I marked and drilled holes 40mm down from the gunwhale, starting at 200mm from the stem and at 100mm centres for the lacing. I measured (repeatedly) 50mm down from the gunwhale cap and in 70mm from the stem as I reckoned that this would minimise the risk of pulling out. My 1st job was to measure for the bow/stern loop which needed to be a strong point for clipping a tow line/rescue line to if needed. I put the canoe on chairs in the back street just to bring it to a better working hight. 10m of 7mm braid on braid and a further 10m of 4mm braid as well as some B&Q 8mm clear piping brought the bill to about £90. I've photographed the fit out as I went along as it may be of use to other Newbies like myself.ġst off I bought a pair of blocks, enclosed in green Cordura to match my canoe and because everyone knows green is much faster. but as much of my paddling will be myself and my 3 year old son I've decided after much reading on here and other sites that extra flotation in the event of swamping is a good idea and have just fitted a pair of endless river blocks to my Prospector 16. To be honest I prefer the simple look without all the fuss of lacing, extra buoyancy etc. I posted this on another forum, it might be of some use
Your cross laces do not have to be as close together up near the bow as they do toward the fat end of the float bag. Drilling vinyl is probably safe but tedious.Īnother note. I do *not* like the idea of drilling ash. (That's the Millbrook in my avatar, with the sun shining through the hull.) If he says drill the hull, I drill the hull. Kaz has been our national WW open canoe slalom canoe champion several times, and paddles many more miles than the rest of us.
I have a newer boat, a Millbrook made of very thin, light S-glass and Kevlar, and I asked the builder, Kaz, what to do about lacing.
The protruding gunwales, whether vinyl or ash, provide some protection to the lacing emerging from holes underneath. There has been *no* mechanical damage to the lacing on the outside of the boat. My MR Synergy is now about a dozen years old, and for most of those years the boat has been laced through holes drilled through the Royalex.
0 kommentar(er)
